During 6 weeks in Kathmandu and Langtang Valley I have had intentional and surprise encounters with Vajrayogini - like a huntress she has been my ‘game’. An elusive quarry that sometimes I have glimpsed - or thought I had.….
This past week, I visited 5 temples dedicated to her in Kathmandu Valley and unfortunately not allowed to take pictures inside the sanctums I have gleaned a few from the internet to ‘fill the void’ (haha).
Also I had a surprise directive to visit a site near the Tibet border called ‘Khandro - Ma’ at Lang Shi -Sa up the valley from Kyanjin Gompa. It’s a rock overhang with a large stone which is seen as an embodiment of a female practitioner who attained awakening there and gave teachings about 500 yrs ago or more? There is a book about her I am trying to track down.
Khandro- Ma site
Then there are also the natural features in landscapes where I saw her and in artworks I created.
thousand petalled lotus with found steel ties
5 temples in the Kathmandu Valley
I was able to recite mantras in a quiet area in all 5 except at Shanku as there was a Chod Dakini Day Tsok going on with many practioners from a nearby Amitaba Monestary.
Bijeswori Temple
Probably my favourite with the three forms of Vajrayogini shown and I have visited here quite a few times previously. When I sat I experienced a huge rush of feeling and the words “you have no idea how much you are loved” entered my mind. There was a fleeting moment of a vastness of love I hadn’t experienced before. It led me just beyond the edge of what my usual perception.
Whilst there a large group of Tibetan nuns came in also and I had my mala blessed along with theirs touching the deities. Pretty special!
3 forms - image from Tsem Rinpoche website
Entrance
courtyard
Pharping and the retreat cave of Yeshe Tsogyal.
My recollection of the Vajrayogini temple here was over lit by my experience in the Yeshe Tsogyal retreat cave about 10 mins drive and a 5 min walk from the Pharping temple complex with the Asura Cave and which TK had brought my attention to. I wouldn’t have known about it without her knowledge so I am extremely grateful to her. A small entrance led into a very small tunnel into complete darkness. Luckily Dakini had sent me a companion in the form of a young man who was not afraid and in we went. This young man had hung around me for hours while I visited the other temples wanting to sell me a mala. I was sort of grumpy with him the whole time as I was feeling husslec. Anyway he ended up being my hero as he found the cave and once in there his peace was palpable. He steadied me in the claustrophobic environment and I found my fear melting away. I don’t know that I would have been able to stay in there alone. I felt how courageous and out of this world Yeshe Tsogyal must have been to inhabit this space. Sitting in the blackness there was no difference between eyes open or shut. It was a strange sensation to have my eyes open and ‘see’ black. This thought came to me
“We / I am the conduit between infinity and solidity. I am nothing and everything . When I open my eyes I see nothing and everything. When I close my eyes I see everything and nothing.”
On the way out with a torch I noticed the sides of the cave were confluted looking like ribs and sparkling. It was like we were inside her body - in her heart - and these ribs were oozing water, just like moistening the heart. I felt elated and humbled.
Pharping Vajrayogini temple
Vajrayogini at Pharping - from Tsem Rinpoche website
stairs leading to Yeshe Tsogyal cave entrance
diamond light
ribs
Sankhu
This temple was a little further away from the city and the surrounding grounds were being being repaired so it was a bit of a building site.
When I arrived there was a Tsok (or other ceremony ?) with a group of practitioners from nearby Amitaba monastery. No-one spoke good English so it was hard to know exactly what was happening. But I was able to experience a Chod ceremony with drums and thigh bone trumpets.
I had to wait an hour for the doors to the deity to be opened and had a very brief appointment with Vajrayogini here.
image from Tsem Rinpoche website
image from Tsem Rinpoche website
Patan - Akash VajraYogini at Ma Boudha
I had no idea where this temple was but didn’t need to ask as I was taken directly there by a Newari friend I met years ago. She had no idea she was taking me to Vajrayogini either as this one is within and upstairs at the Maa Boudha temple. She was as delighted as I! and took me to the next temple also. She had known about Vajrayogini (Bajrayogini) but is now excited to go deeper in. This skydancing form (Akash) is probably the most beautifully rendered and visible of the temples I visited. Her face is riveting! - so beautiful and freshly painted. The upward gaze to infinity so clear.
images from Tsem Rinpoche website (not freshly painted face :)
Bajrayogini Temple
This one I visited with two other people and it was rush hour ! Many women and school girls attending before school or work began. I was wonderful to see all the slightly different ways and things each person offered. I was able to sit inside and recite mantras and watch. This temple is built over the natural spring (Vajrayogini) and you cannot see that source it is hidden. The main point of devotion is a small rock which sits above the spring.
I don’t have and can’t find any images or the actual name of this temple. My local friend just knew about it.
I really loved how this one was directly related to the natural elemental source of the devotion - a natural spring. This connection with and in nature is still where I find myself meeting and encountering Vajrayogini /Dakini most easily. 🙏
Lastly I was informed that the natural eternal gas flame at Muktinath is an expression of Vajrayogini - I have visited there also before so that was a lovely new and old connection 🔥
Muktinath - Jwala Mai
It is here that one can find the eternal burning flames of natural gas, or as the Buddhists say: Sale Mebar (burning soil); Do Mebar (burning stone) and Kla Mebar (burning water). The holy flame alongside a spring, in combination with earth, water, fire and air, seems to be the origin of the religious significance of Muktinath, because only here all the elements are present in one place.
The small burning flames are hidden in the Gompa on the floor, behind a grid. One wouldn't notice them, if not shown by someone. One has to kneel down on the floor with forehead almost touching the ground to see the small blue flame (behind a grid) that has been burning here for thousands of years. Pilgrims have been coming here for more than 3000 years to witness this natural combination of earth, water, fire and air at one spot.
Source text and images from www. nepal trekking online .de
🔥🔥🔥💃🔥🔥🔥
the Machik Labdron statue I found in Patan to take home EMAHO ✨
It's hard to find the words to respond to all these profound images and your experiences. I can only say that I feel so touched and thankful.